Touch-me-Not!

We see some fantastic things here.  This "Touch-me-not" plant recoils when you touch it.  We had a similar one in Texas, but I don't remember it being this large.  The kids are constantly stooping over plants now stroking them - hoping for the same reaction. Its proper name is Mimosa pudica, but Touch-me-not has stuck in our house.

Rise, My Glorious Blog, RISE!

Someone once said the blog is dead, and it might well be, but - I'm going to dust if off and give it another go.

It has been a little bit of time since my last post.  Sorry.  It got so tedious.  I would write something, self-editorialize it down to about 2 sentences, decide to tweet it instead, wonder why I should share it at all, hate self for wanting to share privileged experiences that occur in a under-privledged country, loath the whole process and purpose, and then press delete.

But as we have just recently changed country again, I find myself a little alienated from a dispersal of friends and family.  I realized that I just need to go back to what the original intentions of the blog were - to keep in touch, no matter how infrequently, with friends and family. 

So here we are.  No longer in Angola, but in our new location in the Republic of the Congo!  It is great to be back together as a family again.  Over the past 3.5 years we have spent most of it separated from Dad.  After child no.3 (hence forth known as E3) was born, it took us 10 months to obtain a visa for him and return to Angola.  Then following 8 months in Angola, after our visas were not renewed, we spent another 16 months either trying to get back to Angola, waiting to be transferred elsewhere, or waiting on the appropriate paperwork and visas to come through in order to get here!  We did see M.  for periods during this time - but it was always with the understanding that he wasn't staying with us, that he was just a visitor.  So we are just wild with excitement that we are together in the same country!!  I tip my hat to single parents.  

   

Right - I think that is enough for my resurrection post.  I will hit "publish" before I edit this one into oblivion.

We went to a french boulangerie in Pointe-Noire last weekend.  It didn't look like much from the outside, but inside...so many pastries, cakes, and cookies!   The kids had Choc-au-pain.  It may well become a Sunday ritual.  We don't have a car, so we ride our bikes - which was a little nerve wracking for me.  M. took my bike, plonked E3 in the basket (safe), E2 on the back.  E1 rode E2's bike (she was all knees) and I went on M.'s.   I'll see if I can snap a picture next time of the travelling circus.

Shipwreck Beach

Christian. Marcus, Emma and Eve at Shipwreck Beach.

About two hours north of Angola is a beach, with more than five kilometers littered with  the remains of dozens of abandoned ships.  I can't tell you exactly why, I can just assume they were un-sea worthy and then grounded.  Maybe they are gearing up to get into the ship breaking business.

The Wilson Turners on Safari!

I rely heavily upon the Bradt Guide for my information about Angola.  So when planning my trip to Kissama National Park I read that it was not that impressive.  So, with expectations firmly set at low, I was really pleased to hear myself say, on numerous occasions : "This is SO MUCH FUN!!!".

The Spoons did not write Romantic Traffic while visiting Luanda

We had planned to go the past few weekends on an adventure about 150 km out of the city, it got delayed, but we managed a few short-haul adventures.  Going outside Luanda requires a little planning and here is why...

Driving and Traffic

Traffic here is, at times, dense with soul-sucking jams.  An urban population explosion combined with poor road infrastuture makes for some interesting commutes to the office.  Marcus gets up at 4:30 every morning to take a 5:30 bus that will take him to the office in Luanda.  Apparently it was once 5 am, perhaps an indication that road works have had some improvement over time.  An hour later, and he is at the office.  It is about 15 km away.  To leave later would mean waiting in the van for two hours plus.  We don't drive in the city due to some company restrictions that requires us to have a driver.  In the after noon our driver, Kininno, picks Marcus up and he misses the usual rush hour and is home with in an hour.   As Marcus takes the commuter bus in the mornign, this leaves the driver free to take me any place in the morning, usually grocery shopping.  After 5 months of living here, Marcus is free to apply for a drivers licence, but I think he is discuraged from driving to work.  The licence will come in handy for our weekend trips, as of now we have to use our driver - which is ok, but we are limited to day trips, no over nighters.  

Company cars have driving security features that will not allow you to drive over 60 km/hr and will beep angrely at you if you do.  It also has an annoying way of transmitting that information to the office, so that Big Brother knows when the rules have been broken.  It is in Kinnino's best interst to drive carefully and safely.  We had the the same system in Libya and Italy where we drove ourselves.  There was one month where Marcus has enough alarms go off that the company told him he could'nt drive for a week as punishment.  It beeps if you break too fast or take off too slow,  it beeps if you think about yelling at another driver and it beeps when you feel fairly smug that you havn't made the car "beep" in a few days. I HATE it.  Kinnino is an exceptional driver however, so I rarely hear it.

The Car will also freak out if you go ourside a certain city limit.  You have to have this diabled to go on a big roadtrip, and if you want to get somewhere faster, you also can have the security features disabled so you drive faster without wanting the rip the bloody beeper out.  There is also a tracking system so that should anything happen, the company can locate your vehicle fairly quickly.  Anyhow, every weekend you want to do this, you have to apply for an exsemption. Lots of sticky red tape.  But well worth it I think.

The other thing about driving is, you have to have all your documentation on you (as you would any where in the world), but even passengers should travel with their passports and as ours are being processed for our visas, we were without for a few weekends, and thus grounded.  Once we had a "receipt" for our passports, we were able to go again.

Is driving any dangerous than Libya, or Italy for that matter?  I don't think so.  It seems fairly normal.  Traffic can be dense and bus drivers are certainly a liability, but it isn't Libya.  Perhpas Libya was my first real ex-pat experience, but Marcus agrees, Libya was a special place for driving.  I remember reading in a travel book that discibed Libyan drivers as treating road sinage as mere suggestions and traffic lights as pretty distractions.  Not to mention that run-in's with the police could end you up in prison.  I got yelled at by the fuzz there and lost my license for a month - and that was enough for me (long-story, best left as repressed memory).

Meanwhile, Marcus was in a "fender bender" last week where a Fire-truck hit the back end of the car.  No one was hurt. I will post this without the picture, but I'll get him to send it to me.  

Mussulo

Discribed by the Bradt guide as a spot for Luanda's "glitteratti", this place is about a 15 min. boat ride from the city.  Its not really an island, so much as an giant sand spit created from the waters of the Kwanza river.  Apparently it also has a large amount of mangroves and as such, is a favourite spot for Manatees. Didn't see any. It was more of a reconansance mission, as we ended up at a resort not knowing where else to land on the  island.  The resort was, I guess, a bit swish - we got left on a dock, all donned out tilly hats and fast-dry adventure wear amist half naked bikini and speed-o clad oiled bodies.  Tourist alert!  Nevermind - we got to have a bit of an adventure and next time we will research our drop off point better.

Marcus fashioned his own fishing net from the flotsam

Cabo Ledo

We actually didn't get to go to Cabo Ledo.  After applying for an exception and receiving an approval, we set off across the Kwanza River Bridge, only to have loud alarm go off.  Fearing the car would just shut-off if we continued on, we turned around (not on the bridge, but just before it) and went to a local beach.  Apparently we need to have it physically disabled the first time, and after that it can be done remotely.  When you live in a compound/fishbowl, you spend all week dreaming of your big adventure, and as mine fell to pieces I had a non-advisable moody snit-fit worthy of a child.  Until Marcus got us involved in building a beach hut - and I managed to get over it.  Next weekend perhaps!

Emma's creativity astounds me.  Kite made from beach rubbish.  Brilliant.

You have to walk before you can run, I realize this, but its still hard to understand.  Hierarchy of needs dictates that rubbish bins follow after health care, sanitation, clean water and freedom.

One of my favourite sights on the road  - pack as many people in a truck as possible and drive.  

Welcome to Angola

Yipee! We are finally here!  I can hardly believe it.  After months of planning and packing, a rather bungled exodus, and we have arrived in Luanda Sul, our home for the next three years. Well, I hope three years, but after three moves in less than three years, in locations that were all meant to be three years, anything is possible...

The Arrival

We left on New Years Eve, flying out of Milan via Dubai with two legs - one 8 hours the other 10.  We were exhasted from the move, everyone was run-down with the cold - so we opted to up-grade to business.  This was a huge Christmas gift to ourselves, as we had missed any sort of real Christmas holiday.  I have done buisness class twice before, but on Air Canada, nothing really special, just a wee bit more room. And alcohol.  We went via Emerites, and I can honestly say that air travel will forever be a disappointment.  I'll let the pics speak for themselves.

We arrived the next day on New Years and it was wonderful, hot day with a cool breeze and a deep azure sky.  Marcus, having lived here for 5 months already, had the house organised and tidy.  He had his own homemade spagetti sauce and stock frozen in the fridge, as well as cold Cider awaiting me.  Contrast this with our arrival in Libya!

Over the next few days we got to explore our new world.  We live on a compound in Luanda Sul, the 'burbs.  Here we are sheltered from the realities of real life.  There is a shocking amount of urban poverty here in Luanda.  The first thing I noticed was how the city shimmered in the sunlight while the plane was descending due to the glint off the sheet metal roofs of the slums (musseques).  Compare this to large opulent oil company buildings.  The city is bursting with development and every direction you look you can see a spindly neck of a working crane.   Some roads look fairly organised, busy with people sweeping the sand and rubbish into bins, there are working traffic lights, sidewalks and signage, but then you turn down another street and its just sheet metal houses with boulders holding the roofs down.  People are throwing their waste water into the street, and wild dogs and chickens sifting through it.  I have driven past a stream of water that runs next to a road and watched mothers wash their kids in it.  I have no idea where it comes from but it is a mere trickle of brown water.  On the other hand, the compound is neet and tidy,  two little playgrounds, a decent sized swimming pool and a little gym.  The giant generator works 24/7 to provide our little compound electricity.  We have drinkable (aka: boil first), running water which is trucked in.  A giant ancient Bao Bob is at the entrance of the compund and I wonder, what with all its ancient knowledge, all the changes she has seen over her life of nearly a thousand years... it must be odd to have started on a wild track of land and end up surrounded by brick houses, pavement, and razor wire.

Ordinary Life

Money
The currency is the Kwanza named after the large Kwanza river, just south of Luanda.  When you leave the country, you must go through a check to insure that you are not carrying any out of the country.  If you have any on you, apparently it is confiscated.  I can't say that I have ever heard of this in any other country, I should look it up.  It seems an odd rule to have in place, and I can't fathom why it would be enforced.  I guess its a good way to scrape more money off people.  Too bad they can't put it into the infrastructure of their country.   As of today 1 US Dollor = 95.1 Kwanza.  There is no coinage, just bills - the smallest being the 5 Kwanza, worth .05 cents US.  I have a stack of them - they seem impossible to get rid of once you get one.  The cost of living and the price of things will be another post.

Malaria
According to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) Malaria remains the number one cause of death in Angola.  Its one of the Malaria areas that also has a resistance to the main cure and treatment in the rest of the world, chloroquine.  We are not taking any prophylactic medicine, but we try and use other preventive measures such as a fly repellant, wear long trousers or sleeves near evening, get indoors and close the shutters by six, sleep under treated bed nets, have screens installed on bedroom windows, keep the AC down at night.  We live next to an SOS clinic, so when someone gets a temperature, we get it checked out right away.  Marcus has gone twice now.  No doubt Malaria is a concern but with a bit of common sense and preventive measures, we should be fine.  Hopefully no one will get it, but it does happen.  I am attending a Malaria preparedness training session tomorrow, and I think this will be good for re-enforcing vigilance with the girls.

Bugs Bugs Bugs
Emma said it was important to include this in our post, and indeed, not a day goes by when we are not investigating some large insect or lizard.  Our first was a cockroach.  I know they are everywhere in the world, but they always seem bigger in Africa.  Our first morning we caught one as long as my middle finger, not including the antennae.  I bought a beautiful entomology text book beftore we arrived, and this has been a source of constant excitement.  I only wish I had a magnifying glass!  Next trip out I will be sure to get one.  As well as some latex coated pins so we can mount our bugs.  Below is a Carpenter Bee that we see quite a lot of in the Bao Bob here.  The male hasn't a stinger, so it is harmless, just makes a horrendous noise.  When I was putting  him in the bottle I was aware of the blood pounding in my ears.  Emma said, "be brave mom, what would Bear Grylls say?".  I think that every time I put a bug in a jar now.  Today it was a 2 inch long Wolf Spider, and I conjured my best Bear Grylls spirit to do it.  Yuck.

        
Day Trips


Benfica Market

Last Sunday we had a small day trip out to the Kwanza river and stopped at the Benfica Market as we headed out of the city.   We didn't buy anything, but it did have everything I might need for gifts, so I am happy to say I have next Christmas organised.

Ivory.  Legal to sell here, but I can imagine you would have troubles getting it into any country.   Val, I thought of your poor chipped up ivories on your piano.  These guys could get you sorted.  Your conscience however, is another story.

A great addition to any home.

Emma said she would buy one and set it free.

Miradouro da Luna

Impressive views about 45 south of Luanda at Miradouro da Luna.  Marcus, our geologist in residence, enjoyed this one and if I remember correctly, this landscape was carved by wind and rain.  The soft clay erodes to give these impressive ravines and gullies, not unlike the surface of the moon.  Marcus, leave a comment if I have gotten this wrong.

Taking time out to read.  Notice collapsed tarmack behind.  

Kwanza River

Our destination this outing was the Kwanza River.  We stopped at the Kwanza River Lodge which has a number of bungalows you can rent for over night trips.  They even had a large fishing boat, which I guess you could go out on an try your hand at fishing.  Its meant to be a pretty good place for sea and river fishing - plus crocs and manatees.  Next time perhaps.  Our trip was cut a bit short this time due to certain persons suffering from the usual stomach aliments that accompany a transfer to Sub-Saharan Africa.  That could be another post too.  There is no shortage of wild and wonderful things you can pick up here, as our doctor re-assured us as he wrote out a perscription to have the entire family de-wormed.

Surprisingly heavy.  Makes you realize why there is no contest if you get caught in a famous Death Roll.

Anyhow, I keep saying this, but I am going to make sure I post every week.  We are off on another adventure this weekend, so will try and upload some pics Sunday nite.

Christmas in Italy

Having moved country three times in less than three years I would like to think that I could accumulate enough knowledge on what takes place in the transition stages to minimize any major sets-backs or stresses.  Perhaps next time.  Sigh. We did not obtain our much-needed Angolan visas in time to go to England for Christmas.  We will also miss the flights we booked to make the journey from London to Luanda.  And the movers took everything away nearly two weeks ago.  Hopefully the mistakes we made this time are more a testament to the red tape and beaurocratic processes of Angola/Italy, than to our inability to learn from our experiences.  Perhaps after 4 international moves you become savvy.

At any rate, we are in the NH hotel for our Christmas holidays, which is the building next to our now packed-up and empty apartment.  This isn't so bas as we are in our "hood" surrounded by friends, the Sporting Club, and the play ground.  And the hotel is actually a residence with a small kitchenette, two bedrooms and two bathrooms - not hard living.

In fact, we are the only people residing in the residence during the holidays (queue long creepy talks about The Shining).  We have a special key to operate the lift, as there is no staff in the building.  Yesterday Marcus rang to say he was downstairs and needed me to come let him in.  I told the gals to run down the hall to the elevators (as there is no one else here) and operate the lift.  As they were running screaming down the hallway, a shrieking and giggling gaggle of blonde children, Evie shouts: "Emma, DO YOU LOVE ME???", Emma: "YESSSSS!!! WOO- HOO!!!", Evie: "I LOVE YOU TOOOOOO!!!!! DON'T LEAVE ME EMMA!!!!".  It is moments like that that moms live for.  We are not stuck anywhere.  We are always at home wherever our family is.

Christmas Eve night we were invited to the parents of our friends Francesco and Federico, who have children the same age as ours, as well as a beautiful newborn.  Babo Natale (Father Christmas) happened to sneak in and leave some presents for the children and we had a great time watching them open everything, running around like wild beasts and playing with a train set.

Our host, Anna, gave us a wonderful Italian culinary feast.  The longer we live here, the more we are bewitched by Italian food.  Like true ex-pats in who can't get enough, we were taking photos of each dish (see below).  What is so different about Italian food?  Italy is a pretty big place and each region brings its own gastronomic delights, but from what I can tell, it is simple, tasty and healthy.  Well, mostly.  Nothing Anna cooked last night would be considered simple.  And I am certain a cardiologist would not approved of anything wrapped in bacon.  Anyhow, our host is part of some exclusive Italian culinary institute, which I don't know the name of (so it shows how much I know), and the meal was F.A.N.T.A.S.T.I.C.

Today we woke late and enjoyed a lazy morning of Lego, then were off to the Sporting Club restaurant which luckily, cooked a Natale Pranzo (Christmas Lunch) for those of us without ovens, or the desire to cook.  This was followed by a sleepy winter's nap and a frenzy of Skype calls, a ton of Bellini's, and here we are.  We will wrap up today with an Italian version of a Muppets Christmas Carol and more Lego.  We are anticipating the arrival of Paul and Jenny tomorrow evening for what will undoubatably be a few days filled with walks in the mountains, Italian food, and Prosecco!  Buon Natale! Auguri!

Eating traditional Italian Pandoro

Unwrapping our traditional Milanese Panettone.  Two cakes in one week.   Feel as big as a barrel....

Kitchen (senza oven, which means less cooking for me)

Children had handmade ravioli with spinach for dinner.

Busy, busy, busy...

Large Italian cookbook.  

Antipasto - Raddicio...oh, I forget.  It was heaven.

Primi.  Handmade ravioli.

Everyone enjoying the meal.  I look like I am enjoying it too much.

Secondi.  Bacon wrapped and stuffed with artichoke!

Dolce.  Semi-Freddo.  Cream and hazelnuts covered with chocolate. 

Mommy's shoes, which didn't fit mommy after dinner.

Papa

After Babo Natale

Francesco's head.

Happy people

A treat in art, that equals that of the meal.  A fantastically preserved fresco magically hung on their wall.  A home filled with Roman and Greek Antiques and curios that made me realise how much I have forgotten since university. 

The glowing new mommy with her beautiful baby!

Christmas morning and Lego!

Christmas dinner at the Sporting Club.

Barbie with new Zoo-keeper outfit.  A little on the short side if you ask me.

Gnocci - kids favourite dish.

My antipasto.  Fruits del la mare!